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23-09-2010, 12:25
Gucci: From Bourdin to Berber
Godfrey Deeny
September 22nd, 2010 @ 10:11 AM - Milan

Milan fashion season properly kicked off Wednesday afternoon with a slick, snazzy and sensational show from Gucci that began by referencing Seventies chic and ended distilling Moroccan style into polished Italian glamour.

In her best show for Gucci, the house’s creative director Frida Giannini riffed on '70s photographic imagery, using fabulously bold hues - like bitter orange, deep turquoise and Atlas Mountain purple - and infusing a North African sensibility into a memorable spring 2011 collection.

Used in some splendidly cut chiffon pants, smartly draped one-shoulder silk tops and dimpled short skirts, the colors made for a great opening moment. Adding to the snappy mix, Giannini paired these looks with great burnished cooper snakeskin bags and some charming leather Obi belts with horsey woven tassels, a smart reference to the house’s equestrian traditions.

“I was influenced by '70s photographers like Guy Bourdin,” explained Giannini referring to the legendary surrealist fashion photographer.

Giannini then strutted her fresh fashion take via Gucci’s famous leather ateliers with a series of brilliant fringed jackets and great multi-stripe pants in shades of nude that had tremendous panache. They were particularly successful when combined with a burnished crocodile bomber jacket worn by Australian catwalk star Abbey lee, an image that will grace magazines covers worldwide this coming spring. Then the designer ramped up the pulse rate with some high-octane, Mediterranean cocktail dresses, the fruit of a recent trip down south.

“I got inspired by Morocco when I was there shooting our ad campaign,” smiled the freshly blond and finely bronzed designer.

To that end, her finale consisted of woven ethnic dresses of shards of leather, embroidered with gold touches and finished with Berber bracelets and necklaces. It was no surprise too – given her fondness for black – that she even sent out a innovative tuxedo meets jodhpur style evening gown with satin lapels that was a real stunner. Talk about moodily Moorish.

Giannini has been a breakthrough designer for Gucci. Under her helm the company broke through the two billion Euro, or $2.5 billion at current exchange rates, sales barrier; and thanks to her designs and understanding of the Florentine brand’s unique heritage Gucci has also built a phenomenally large high-end accessories business. Today in Milan she broke through in the one area that had still partially eluded her: the runway.

Not that Giannini hasn’t produced some fine collections, but there has rarely been a huge groundswell of approval. That will end with this show, the finest display of haute gamme sportswear luxury Italian fashion has seen in many years.

http://www.fashionwiredaily.com/first_word/fashion/article.weml?id=3331

Iedere mens raakt wel geinspireerd als men The homeland of the Imazighen bezoekt.

23-09-2010, 12:28


Klinkt wel interessant, ben benieuwd hoe de kleding stukken eruit zien en of er inderdaad iets Marokkaans in terug te vinden valt